Comfort Food
Slow-Braised Lamb Shoulder
Four hours of patience, falling-apart tenderness
Four hours of patience, falling-apart tenderness
There is a small taverna on the coast near Crete where the owner cooks lamb shoulder in a terracotta pot buried in hot coals. The meat emerges four hours later so tender it falls apart when you look at it. This is that lamb, adapted for your oven. Low and slow. Rosemary from the garden. A bottle of red wine, half for the pot and half for you. The smell will fill your house and bring the neighbours knocking. Let it rest. Let it breathe. Let the afternoon disappear. This is Sunday cooking at its finest.
Preheat your oven to 160°C. Pat the lamb shoulder dry with paper towel. Using a sharp knife, make 12-15 small incisions all over the meat. Stuff each incision with a slice of garlic and a small sprig of rosemary. Season generously all over with salt and pepper.
Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based casserole dish over medium-high heat. When shimmering, add the lamb and sear on all sides until deeply golden brown, about 3-4 minutes per side. Do not rush this. The colour you build now is flavour later. Remove the lamb and set aside.
In the same pot, add the onions and carrots. Cook for 5 minutes until softened. Stir in the tomato paste and oregano, cooking for another minute until fragrant. Pour in the red wine and scrape up all the golden bits stuck to the bottom of the pot. This is where the magic lives.
Return the lamb to the pot. Add the stock, bay leaves, and remaining rosemary sprigs. The liquid should come halfway up the lamb. Bring to a gentle simmer on the stovetop.
Cover the pot tightly with a lid or heavy-duty foil. Transfer to the oven and braise for 3.5 to 4 hours. Turn the lamb once halfway through if you remember, but it will forgive you if you forget. The lamb is done when it yields completely to the gentlest prod of a fork.
Remove the lamb from the pot and tent loosely with foil. Let it rest for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, strain the braising liquid into a jug, discarding the vegetables and herbs. Skim off any excess fat from the surface.
Pour the strained liquid into a wide pan and bring to a boil. Reduce by half until it thickens into a glossy, rich sauce, about 8-10 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed.
Pull the lamb apart gently with two forks or simply carve thick slices. Arrange on a warmed serving platter. Drizzle generously with the sauce. Serve with roasted potatoes, crusty bread, and a simple green salad. This is a meal that deserves a table full of people and a long, slow afternoon.
Ask your butcher for a lamb shoulder with the bone in and a good layer of fat. The bone adds flavour, and the fat keeps everything moist during the long braise. If you can only find boneless, reduce the cooking time by about 30 minutes. This dish is best in autumn and winter when lamb is at its richest and the urge to turn on the oven lasts all afternoon.
