Quick
Midnight Pasta Aglio e Olio
Garlic, chilli, olive oil, fifteen minutes
Garlic, chilli, olive oil, fifteen minutes
It is past eleven. The house is quiet. You are hungry, but not for anything complicated. This is the pasta for that moment. Aglio e olio. Garlic and oil. A handful of ingredients that always live in the pantry. No sauce to simmer. No vegetables to chop. Just you, a pot of boiling water, and the sound of garlic sizzling gently in olive oil. The Italians have been making this for centuries when the cupboard was bare and sleep was still hours away. It is simple. It is perfect. And if you get the garlic just right, golden and fragrant without a hint of bitterness, it will be the best thing you eat all week.
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Salt it generously—it should taste like the sea. Add the pasta and cook according to the packet instructions until al dente. Before draining, scoop out a mugful of the starchy pasta water and set it aside. You will need it later.
While the pasta cooks, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over low heat. Add the sliced garlic. Let it cook gently, stirring occasionally, until it turns pale gold and fragrant, about 3-4 minutes. Do not rush this. Burnt garlic is bitter garlic, and there is no coming back from that.
When the garlic is golden, add the chilli flakes. Stir for 10 seconds until they bloom in the oil, releasing their warmth. Remove the pan from the heat immediately to stop the cooking.
Drain the pasta and add it straight to the pan with the garlic oil. Toss everything together over low heat. Add a splash of the reserved pasta water, a little at a time, until the pasta is glossy and well-coated. The starch in the water helps the oil cling to the pasta rather than pooling at the bottom of the bowl.
Remove from the heat. Toss through the chopped parsley. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt. If you like, add a squeeze of lemon or a grating of Parmesan, though purists will tell you neither is strictly necessary. Serve immediately in a warm bowl. Eat it slowly. There is no one to impress at midnight except yourself.
This dish lives or dies on the quality of the olive oil. Use something you would happily dip bread into. Cold-pressed, extra virgin, preferably from a small producer. The garlic should be fresh and firm, not sprouting or soft. If you are feeling fancy, add a tin of good anchovies to the oil along with the garlic—they will melt into the sauce and add a deep, savoury richness. Just do not tell anyone. Some of the best things are secrets.
